Pemberley Travel Journals
This is a compilation of the highlights from the Republic Of Pemberley's summer 1997 travel bulletin board (and highlights from subsequent years, as well). Most of the discussion centered around people's vacations to Austen-related places in England. The board is now back, scheduled to remain up as long as discussion continues. Austen travel journals, travel information, or whatever, can be sent to Webmaster.
If I had to do it again: Skip Oxford and do Lyme Regis.
Posted by Laurel on June 26, 1997 at 11:11:05:
Did I correctly infer that Ann2's JA course is going to be at Brasenose College? Several years ago I spent a summer at Brasenose with a group from my university. Brasenose is beautiful, happily situated right in the center of Oxford. Since its look is so classically Oxfordian, it's used quite often in films and TV shows, most notably the Inspector Morse series.
One of Brasenose's more interesting traditions (if it is indeed still one) is that the staff go round to each room in the morning to "knock you up", so you won't miss breakfast. I knew I was in England each day as I awoke to a knock and a cheery "Good morning!"
If possible, negotiate for a room in one of the older buildings. The newer dorm has better showers, but absolutely NO charm!
Finally, the food, at least when I was there, was not bad, but neither was it something to write home about. Luckily, the Oxford Market is just a few steps away, and it has all sorts of goodies!
Have a wonderful time! And tell us all about it!
Posted by Kathleen, Ann2, and Inko on July 29, 1997 at 08:52:38:
This evening, after dinner, you may all join us in the Deer Park for croquet accompanied by Pimm's No. 1 (a deliciously mild drink with lethal effects).
Now for the highlights of our two and a half days here!
Ann2 is the hit of the group--she is the only non-US citizen and certainly the first from Sweden! Mostly, they want to know how she ever found out about Univac!
Kathleen and Inko met at Paddington Sta. and took the train to Oxford last Sunday, midday. That evening we met up with Ann2 at a champagne reception followed by a four-course dinner in the Great Hall. On the wall, right above the table and facing us, was an incredibly daggy unicorn!;-) The lion opposite was uninterested, but the motto read "Honi Soit Qui Mal Y Pense" (Shame on him/her who thinks evil thereof). Dinner was followed by a trip to a nearby pub!
JA lectures started yesterday morning (only 11 in the course). The lecturer, Helen Wheeler, is adorable and very informative - she knows all the background to JA re: her family, the times in which she lived, etc. The other participants, from N.Y., Cleveland & Dallas, are an eclectic mix--an interesting diverse group.
We are the only net-savvy folks around. Yesterday the three of us had lunch at a pub and sat till 5 p.m. unable to stop talking! In the evening - after an even better four course dinner, we had the option of attending a poetry reading and song recital in the college chapel. Inko went (late) for the end of the reading and the songs.
Tommorrow our whole group goes to Bath followed by Lacock--an all day excursion. Thursday we go punting. Friday we three musketeers are going to Chawton and maybe Winchester.
HAVING A GREAT TIME -- WISH YOU WERE HERE!
:-D , :-D , :-D
Posted by Ann2 (somewhat improved grammarwise) on August 06, 1997 at 10:30:40:
The most delightful person, I have had the fortune to come across in many years, was awaiting us when we entered our lecture room on Monday morning! Helen Wheeler gave us the Austen over-all treatment!! She lectured us like no other woman in England could have done it! Without ever, well almost never, giving me the feeling of inferiority that would have been most appropriate. She quoted and read to us, she acted scenes from Austen novels, gothic ones...she moved around like a fairy, her hands were like butterflies...she was incredibly entertaining. And she drew us in! Had me nodding in consent, so that I was able to feel really clever now and again ...
Posted by kathleen (elder) on August 08, 1997 at 05:54:04:
I am finally home, and having slept nine hours, I thought I would try to catch up on the board!!
Ann2 has already told you about our lecturer, Helen Wheeler. She was marvelous. She gave us a lot of info, and I have written down the names of books, plays, and authors that I will try to read in my spare time. ;-)
As Inko told you earlier, she and Ann and I spent a lot of our free time talking. It was marvelous having travelling companions who shared so many of the same interests. When Ann & I got back to London, we walked our feet off and looked at gardens and museums (when we weren't searching for CF videos!).
We saw a play together -- Marlene, starring Sian Phillips (Livia in I, Claudius). It is about Marlene Dietrich when she was on tour in the 1960's and 1970's. It was wonderful. She captured the feel of an aging star trying to relive some of her glory days. This play (with music -- she sings some of Dietrich's songs) is supposed to come to Broadway this Autumn, and I would highly recommend it. I also saw four other plays: Pygmalion (with Roy Marsden as Prof. Higgins), Tom and Clem, Skylight, and The Maids. They were all interesting. This is already getting too long, so I shall leave you (for now).
Posted by kathleen (elder) on August 09, 1997 at 11:01:01:
The UNIVAC (University Vacations) personnel were incredible. They took care of us in a very friendly manner. In fact, they arranged for our driver and limo to go to Chawton (although we had to pay, of course!). From the opening night champagne reception and dinner to the last evening's same, every one was helpful and friendly.
Our activities director was a first-year Oxford student, Chris, from Northern Ireland. Chris is reading Mathematics, so I discussed his course work and background. He was trying to find someone with a large enough suitcase to smuggle him to the U.S. for a visit, but he had to settle for a trip back home with his father.
The instructor for our course was Helen Wheeler, whom Inko & Ann have described previously. There was another course, on Gothic Novels, taught by James Methven (from Scotland). He lectures at Oxford, and next year will be Dean of Oriel College at Oxford (and he's only 28!). [I believe he also taught the UNIVAC course on the Brontes the week before our course.]
Too much food, and not enough time to see everything, but a pleasant stay, even if I did share a bathroom which was located up one flight of stairs from my room. Extracurricular activities were optional, and included punting, an organ recital (drinking port in the chapel was a bit strange for me), hiking, visiting local pubs, and poetry reading. In our free time (!), Inko & Ann & I managed to find some bookstores and opportunities for talking.
We had two or three "class" meetings every day (except the day we went to Bath & Lacock). Helen gave us a lot of insight into the novels, and got us to participate by "assigning" us homework. For example, one day we were to find an example of the "idiology" of a character, that is, the way in which her/his speech pattern provides a thumbnail sketch of that character.
I see by my notes that I need to copy out the names of writers with whom JA would have been familiar. And, I shall add a few more novels to my "to read in the future" list! Ahh, for more time and a longer attention span. ;-)
Posted by Ann2 on August 08, 1997 at 18:17:00:
Yes, like Kathleen so indiscretely suggested, I was slightly interested in getting my hands on a few video items.;-) So Monday afternoon I went over parts of the London Yellow pages with a fine-toothed comb; made a map, and a list of possible shops, the best warehouses! And I thought it had to be destiny/opportunity knocks, when Kathleen let me know that our theatre for tonight, The Lyrics(?) was situated near Picadilly Circus, which was not far from this video store ! We had time to go there before the play started, [Kathleen had the patience of an angel :)], but no Firth films!! On Frith Street! Can you believe this!? Well Sian Phillips - Livia in I, Claudius and the mother of young Cécile in Valmont !! - was very good and an amazingly talented singer! Well in the middle of it all I suddenly realized, you could say,it ran through me like an arrow, this woman has done a film with Colin Firth, been talking to him, and now I breath the same air as she does!! Happiness comes in many forms! ;-)
Posted by kathleen (elder) on August 08, 1997 at 19:41:41:
The last day of our Oxford stay, Inko & Ann & I hired a carriage (Mercedes!) and driver to take us to Chawton. It was a lovely trip, and we saw a lot at the house. Inko discussed the best books with one of the curators. (I was forced to leave the book shop to avoid buying one copy of every JA book they had!)
There were copies of Jane's letters and her writing table. I couldn't believe how small it was -- barely room for a laptop computer, let alone a printer. ;-) The squeaky door had a sign on it, but we didn't test it to see if it still squeaked.
One nice touch: They had two laminated posters of CF as Darcy on the walls -- one in the entry way, and one in the book store. The curator said they had laminated them to be sure they weren't destroyed (by drooling fans, no doubt!). I believe that Inko took a photograph of one of them. ;)
On the way back to Oxford, I sat up front with the driver and we discussed tv shows -- he informed me that he was old enough to remember I Love Lucy. I then had to explain an episode of Absolutely Fabulous to him so he could explain it to his brother. Ahh, cultural exchanges.
Posted by Inko on August 08, 1997 at 10:26:38:
I'm back in London after driving around the midlands for six days. Covered over 600 miles on the left side without a dent in the car! But very scary at times, especially from Stoke on Trent to Chesterfield across the Peak District National Park where even on the map it said "Danger Zone"! Went to the Wedgwood factory in Stoke--amazing how much detailed hand-work goes into producing every piece of pottery and china--and no machine in sight. Definitely labour-intensive. That was last Monday. Tuesday we re-crossed the Peak district to Lyme Park and spent all day there--walking the entire Pemberley Trail and later seeing the house. There was a room displaying P&P costumes which included Darcy's buff-coloured breeches (the thighmaster ones), boots, and grey frock coat all covered with the grey duster coat. Desperately wanted to take photos, but was not allowed!
Wednesday, off to Chatsworth (over decorated inside for my taste) but did enjoy the Mitford connection. In p.m. went to Sudbury House and loved it. Could not go up the grand staircase, but took photo from top (no chance from bottom!). The fireplace mantel in what was the Pemberley music room is incredibly high - Now have to re-watch the tape when I get home to see how Darcy leant against it. I would have had to stand on tiptoe to put a candle on top of it.
Yesterday, Thursday, went to Belton House after a night in Grantham. That, too, is beautiful and they definitely chose the best room to seat Lady C.! Snuck in a photo of Darcy's desk where he wrote the letter to Lizzie (hope it will come out). We headed back to London after Belton and got back in two hours of high-speed driving. It feels very strange to be driving at 70 mph and have cars whizzing by as if I were standing still!
Altogether it was a wonderful week and a half out of London.
Posted by Inko on August 14, 1997 at 09:31:01:
In reply to Re: Back in London after Oxford & Pemberley/Rosings tour! posted by kathleen (elder) on August 08, 1997 at 12:01:57
Did you see the grounds at Belton? Were they as well groomed as we saw on the video?
Hi Kathleen. Yes, I saw everything there was to see at Belton. We got there early--about 11:30 a.m. and the house doesn't open till 1 p.m. so had lots of time to look around the grounds, including Mr. Collins' church (or the one used in the shot where he's ushering Lady C. and Anne out with deep bows!) It's not part of the National Trust but is attached to the house and you can enter it from the grounds. The front of Belton, to my surprise, is quite plain; just lawn and trees. But in the back the bushes are cut like we saw and the flower beds are magnificent. There's also an avenue of trees off to the side.
I made a sort of journal, and I'll try and post that after my return in September.
Posted by Rosemary on August 13, 1997 at 22:39:58:
Hello everyone!
I'm back after a glorious 15 days in England. I'm dying to relive it over and over, and took lots of photos.
I've so enjoyed reading everyone else's journals of their trips this summer. I visited a lot of the same places, like Lyme Park and Lacock.
I am wondering if anyone is interested in my writing a journal of my trip and including some photos (like me sitting where Mr. D'Arcy sat beside the pond where he took that swim!).
I did a lot of other things like seeing a production of Henry V at the newly-christened New Globe Theatre in London, and a performance at the Glyndebourne Opera Festival (it took me 3 years to get tickets and they cost [gulp!] $200!!).
I also followed someone else's lead and had tea at the Ritz Palm Court and at the Pump Room in Bath! Both great suggestions!!
Posted by Martine on August 08, 1997 at 20:04:24:
Well, the trip to France started pretty well for me and pretty rough for Erin.
For me, the economy class ride from Washington, DC to Detroit, to Amsterdam, to Toulouse, ended up being a business class-Champagne trip from DC to Amsterdam, to Toulouse, and believe me, I wasn't complaining about the change!! I've had a couple of horror stories with NorthWest Airlines in the past, so when I originally heard that our plane to Detroit was delayed an hour (just the time I had to make my connection in Detroit!) I could see Hell looming on the horizon. Fortunately, and to NW credit (despite the unpleasant remarks by the staff on our migration from economy to business,) the flight turned out to be a very pleasant one, my neighbour being a chatty Dutch entrepreneur that travelled all over the world and had a lot to say about it!
Poor, poor Erin, on the other hand, had a less idyllic trip. I'll let her tell you the details of it, but I think I can sum it up by saying that British Airways personel was on strike, that she was lucky to have a plane at all, and had the misfortune to have her luggage stuck somewhere between Heathrow and Gatwick... for a good couple of days...grrr.
Anyway, out of necessity and obligation (we really twisted each other's arm on this one... ;-) we HAD TO go shopping for Erin to have something to wear other than my sister's old clothes...
So this is how we meandered through Toulouse, my home town, half searching for clothes (and a pair of shoes) and half visiting the sights to see: Les Augustins, Les Jacobins, La basilique St Sernin, la place Wilson, la place du Capitole... Toulouse is a very old town. The first traces of it are pre-Roman. With its mild climate, the river Garonne, and its strategic placement at equal distance of the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterrenean, and the Pyrenees (2h. by car in each direction,) Toulouse was bound to devellop its commerce and industries. And so it did.
But right now, I'm off to the beach for a few days. So... more about my hometown when I return on Tuesday... Have a nice, beautiful weekend!
Posted by Rosemary on August 26, 1997 at 19:35:32:
Can you believe I'm already thinking ahead to next year and another trip to England?? It's always an expensive trip for me, however, mostly because of the exchange rate, and I am interested in sharing with others tips on bringing the cost of a trip to England down.
One thing I learned this year (although it seems everyone I know has known this for a long time!) is that you get the best exchange rate often if you withdraw your money from your checking account once you are in England, rather than purchasing British pounds here in the States. I had great success with this. My bank, Citibank, has branches in London, and the ATM's there tell you how much the bank will withdraw from your account in American dollars as well as British pounds. I found this very helpful. My rate was usually around 1.6-ish.
Of course, we all know about shopping around for the best airfares.
But I would be interested in how others approach saving money and what little tips and tricks you might have -- especially regarding hotels in London!
Posted by Tracy W on September 08, 1997 at 14:40:13:
In reply to Tips for Economizing posted by Rosemary on August 26, 1997 at 19:35:32
If you get Visa travelers' cheques, you can exchange them at any Barclay's Bank without a fee, and if you get American Express cheques, you can exchange them at any American Express office without a fee. It may make your life a little simpler to get cheques in pounds before you go; then you pay the fees for the cheques here, before you go, so it'll be easier to budget once you're there.
If you're still a student (or if you're an academic) and plan to do any kind of research or academic work while you're there, Lillian Penson Hall (near Paddington Station) is a cheap, clean, and safe place to stay, but rooms are usually available only during the summer holiday. Even if you're not a student, you can stay in university housing if you're traveling while the university isn't in session. The accommodations are not luxurious by any means, but they are reasonably comfortable and conveniently located.
If you want something a little more "grown-up," get a copy of Let's Go: London, which will list the B&Bs and other small hotels that are decent and relatively inexpensive. Pay attention to the word "relatively," though -- a friend of mine just stayed at a "cheap" B&B near the Russell Street tube station that cost about 30 quid a night (That's about $50 -- cheap for the city but expensive on a tight budget).
If you've been to London often enough to have seen all the major sights, pick up a copy of the book London for Free to find out what kinds of different and quirky things are going on in the city for free. There are all sorts of odd little museums, free concerts, even small urban farms you can visit! It'll definitely give you a less traditional view of the most fabulous city in the world.
And of course, all the traditional advice -- eat out of grocery stores (or Boots or Marks & Spencers - AKA "Marks and Sparks") instead of expensive restaurants; buy theatre tickets in the half-price booth at Leicester Square; get weekly or monthly tube passes instead of individual fares; if you're a student, get an international student I.D. and use it wherever you can. Oh yes, and have a fabulous time!!!
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